Back to 1770

After our first visit to 1770, nearly 40 years ago, we recently enjoyed a return trip. No, we are not time travellers, able to move freely into our future or past. 1770 is a hinterland town located on Queensland’s northern coast. It is the only town in Australia whose name is written as a date, in a sequence of four numbers. Thankfully 1770 has remained untouched by developers, and can rightly boast of its pristine beaches, several unspoiled national parks, a spread of wonderful scenery, and an amazing look-out, constructed atop Round Hill. It is a perfect beach holiday spot for those who enjoy roughing it.

Why has this settlement been named 1770? On Wednesday the 23^rd of May 1770, an auspicious traveller, Captain James Cook arrived. Happily for us he decided to pay a visit. It was his second and final landing on our Australian shores. The following extracts from the log of Cook’s vessel, the HMS Endeavour, give us a lively account of this stopover.

Wednesday 23 May
“Early next morning I went ashore with a party of men to explore the country. The country here is manifestly worse than Botany Bay: the soil is dry and sandy, but the hills are covered with palm-nut trees. Upon the shore we saw a species of the bustard, one of which we shot. It was as large as a turkey and weighed seventeen pounds and a half. After roasting it we all agreed this was the best bird we had eaten, and in honour of it we named this inlet, Bustard Bay.”

Accompanying Captain Cook were several soldiers and the botanist, Joseph Banks, who spent his brief time ashore collecting 33 new plant species. Captain Cook was always on the move so on the following day, Thursday the 24^th May he noted –

“At four o’clock in the morning, and with a gentle breeze south, made sail out of the bay.”

At the top of a hill directly above the actual beach where Captain Cook landed, a large stone cairn has been erected. Many travellers enjoy not only this pristine natural environment, but come to experience a place of significance to our early colonial history. The monument is a fitting way to mark the achievements of the 18^th century’s finest navigator, Captain James Cook, the Father of Australia.

Best wishes for a happy holiday season.
My next blog post will appear in mid-January, 2018.

 

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Into the Hills

The hinterland town of Tamborine Village, perched high above the rolling hills of Mount Tamborine, plays host to 5,000 permanent residents and an endless flow of tourists. Settlement is centred here in three village communities: North Tamborine, Eagle Heights and Mount Tamborine. Crisp mountain air mingles with the aromas of coffee, local wine and beer, while friendly chatter is exchanged alongside fresh produce sourced directly from the farm gate.

With its breathtaking scenery and mountain views, Tamborine has become a haven for creatives: painters, crafts people, writers, and photographers. Fine chefs also ensure the cooking and eating opportunities are second to none. This entire vibrant community thrives on its creativity and inclusiveness.

Located on South East Queensland’s Scenic Rim, the name, Tamborine, has nothing to do with the musical instrument. Its origins were derived from a local Aboriginal word, Goombirren which means ‘wild lime.’ No doubt this refers to the finger lime trees that grow abundantly on the mountain and form a staple food in the Aboriginal diet. 

Gardening is a much loved pastime and magnificent spreads of flowers, fruit trees and vegetable patches abound. A beautiful collection of dahlias grows in the back garden of St Bernards Hotel and is always a special delight to visit. In addition to several hectares of manicured lawns and colourful garden beds, St Bernards is a genuine historic hotel, established in the 1880s. Its mountain top site offers magnificent views of Guanaba Gorge and the Gold Coast. The dining rooms also serve fabulous food, seven days a week.

It may be only an hour’s drive from Brisbane, but Tamborine Mountain makes you feel as though you have entered a magical world far away. With its stunningly beautiful national parks and rain forests, this picturesque area in the Scenic Rim is home to some of the most fertile land in Queensland. A host of accommodation offers misty mountain views, where we enjoyed our morning coffee from the veranda of our cottage. Watching the sunshine slowly burn off a cloud of morning mist has remained a cherished memory.

If you ever visit, pack a camera. You’ll be needing it!

 

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A Surprise Award

Surprises can arrive out of the blue at any time. Several days ago a letter arrived in my inbox with a message that my blog has been awarded a place in the top 100 Nature Writing blogs on the web. I was amazed and delighted, particularly as I share this list with National Geographic, BBC Earth, the World Wildlife Fund and the Nature Conservancy. What an honour!

I began writing my blog in 2012 by publishing a weekly post. I selected this particular theme as I wanted to explore descriptive prose writing in the essay form, while combining it with my photography. To date I have published 193 posts and will continue to contribute monthly. This blog has become my joy and a labour of love.

 

Back Roads and Byways

A wide strip of winding road disappears into the hinterland behind us. Like some primordial serpent, it glides over hills and slips down embankments, all the while grasping every contour of the land in its close embrace.

Nearby a towering tallowwood captures our attention. Its strong trunk, covered in rough shards of orange and brown coloured bark, gives way to multitudes of smaller branches. These continue their climb toward the light, diminishing in size until each bough ends in a branchlet, then in a twig.

The roadways also mirror this pattern. Side roads branch away from the centre, morphing from bitumen into gravel and onward into sand. Many of these roadways end in a narrow dirt track overgrown with grasses and scrub.

The hinterland: all those places back, beyond, and further out, calls to the traveller.
“Come follow me as we explore the back roads and byways. My scenery—remote, beautiful, and untouched—will heal and inspire you. In these wondrous places you will learn to appreciate my stillness, nature’s intense colours, and the open sky ringing with birdsong. Enjoy your discovery of secret highlights and beauty spots along these ways.  You will be forever enriched by them.”

“Two roads diverged in a wood and I –
I took the one less travelled by.”

Robert Frost

 

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The Westridge Outlook

A small rural village in Queensland’s Samford Valley marks the site of our home. Here on Australia’s east coast, surrounded by two state forests and four rugged mountains, we enjoy exploring ways to engage with the beauty of our natural surroundings.

One favourite destination is a large mountain, Mount Glorious.  It rises to a height of 600 metres above sea level. In the oppressive heat of our high summer we often head to its crest and cooler temperature, where we spend a comfortable day.  Driving through the mountain’s splendid scenery we are always amazed at its abundance of native rain forest cover—mighty trees, tall palms, and numerous ferns. Flocks of tropical birds, white cockatoos, and brilliant parrots often fill the skies.

On a recent visit, a sign post entitled, The Westridge Outlook, caught our eye. Exiting onto a dirt road we followed this to a car park. Here a wide board walk, enclosed by a fence of metal railings stretched ahead. This walkway was built to encircle an immense rocky outcrop.

Strolling along we admired a mixed forest of grey gums, spotted gums and tall tallowwoods.  Long ago these original timber forests were harvested by timber cutters using only axes and cross-cut saws. The fallen trees were loaded onto wooden carts and pulled by a team of oxen to the nearest sawmill. Thankfully this deforestation was discontinued, and today its remains are protected as a reserve for public enjoyment.

Reaching the half-way mark, the boardwalk expanded into a large viewing area, to expose an open outlook. The rims of distant mountain ranges, shrouded in a blue haze, framed the horizon. We stood in awe at the view of Lake Wivenhoe, our main dam and water catchment area. The upper reaches of the Brisbane River snaked through the landscape, as the D’Aguilar State Forest spread its abundant natural beauty beneath us. It was a breathtaking sight.

   We finished our walk around the ancient rocky escarpment, to end at the point of our beginning. Hopefully other visitors will also discover this hidden treasure, and the magnificent views on offer at the Westridge Outlook.

 

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The Sunflower Way

Whenever the yen for discovery returns, it is time to be off again on a road trip. By choosing to explore an unfamiliar back road or byway, delightful and unexpected surprises often result.

The Queensland road between Warwick and Toowoomba is always a busy highway. While searching for an alternate route, we discovered a 50 kilometre stretch taking us from Warwick to Allora. Since this lovely little town is only a stone’s throw away from Toowoomba, our newly found road, the Sunflower Way, beckoned.  At Warwick we entered it via Victoria Street, turned right into Rosehill Road, and followed the signs to Allora. This proved to be a perfect choice!

A patchwork countryside of ploughed black soil, green lucerne, and brick-red sorghum delighted us. But it was the fields of sunflowers in full bloom that provided a magnificent sight, even in late March at the end of the sunflower cycle. Drifts of golden fields stretched as far as we could see.

Sunflowers are majestic, towering over most people’s heads, and they grow best in full sunshine. The seeds are sold as a snack food or as a component of a bird seed package. Sunflower oil, extracted directly from the seeds, creates inexpensive cooking oil and is also an additive to biodiesel fuel. After the seeds have been processed, the remaining cake becomes healthy livestock feed.

The name, Sunflower (helianthus annuus), possesses only one large flower head, sitting atop a tall unbranched stem. It may have derived its name from the blooming yellow head, which resembles the sun.  A number of fields had already been harvested with their brilliant flower heads gone and the stalks standing alone–now solitary sentinels. They will finally whither and fall, waiting to be ploughed back into the soil as green manure. Thankfully enough fields remained in all their blazing glory to make our drive along the Sunflower Way a memorable one.

When we reached the township of Allora we explored its historic streets. Buildings from the late 1800s and early 1900s featured, together with lovingly tended gardens and parks. The area also offers an opportunity to visit the heritage listed, ‘Glengallan Homestead.’ Our drive was a delightful way to finally reach our destination of Toowoomba. If you find yourself here in high summer, its radiant fields of gold will take your breath away. Yet in any season this back road is a beauty, so be sure to put it on your bucket list and make time to enjoy the Sunflower Way.

 

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The Road to Coober Pedy

A two lane road stretches ahead, more than 526 kilometres long, with only 2 comfort stops and hot food to be found between Port Augusta and Coober Pedy—the opal mining centre of Australia. Empty fields of red, orange, and reddish brown soil are occasionally dotted with tufts of spinnifex grass and the ever present salt bush. Our timing was right on cue as we caught the salt bush in bloom, covered with myriads of tiny white flowers. Its sage green is now dusted with splashes of silver as the salt bush is bathed in sunlight. The colours here are intense. We are immersed in total silence.

Occasionally short, stubby acacia trees reach their maximum height of 3 metres. In this primal bushland when a tree loses its leaves, only the desiccated trunk and branches remain. These ghostly sentinels silently guard the vast, barren landscape until they collapse to litter the area. Underground water can also seep up to form a pond or small lake that evaporates quickly and becomes caked with salt crystals. Everything lies baking in the sun.

Does this seem too monotonous to find enjoyable? When we leave the car for a leg stretch or a photograph, to tread upon the rocks and bones of this land, we are transported back to the beginning of time. Under a mesmerizingly beautiful and austere landscape that weaves its spell to draw us in, we understand we are intruders in this very ancient country on our earth.

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Flying Blind

From time to time I will publish a piece of flash fiction on my web. Enjoy the following short story. Next blog post on Wednesday, April 20th.

   ‘This has been an absolute bugger of a weekend! Thirty-six hours without sleep, two days of tough negotiations and still no contract. Then I stupidly dropped my glasses down a flight of concrete stairs. When I collected them at the bottom, the frame was hopelessly bent and one lens was smashed. So here I am now—stumbling around—only able to see a metre in front of my face. Well at least I can go home and catch up on some sleep,’ I complained aloud.
Peter Bolcombe made his way to the airport departure desk, squinting as his suitcase moved safely through the check-out. Next he secured his boarding pass in his back pocket. Now his biggest problem was finding the correct departure gate; not a simple task when you can’t see very well. He walked for a long time trying in vain to find his way. ‘I’ve come too far or maybe taken a wrong turn. Better ask someone for help,’ Peter whispered to himself. Just then a small motorized travel buggy swerved out of his path.

‘Hey there, I almost hit you,’ called out an unfamiliar voice. ‘Watch out where you’re going!’
‘Sorry!’ Peter called back. ‘I’m travelling to Oakland, but I’m nearly blind and I think I’m lost.’
‘You’re in the wrong terminal,’ the driver answered. ‘You want the building beyond this one. I’m going that way so get in. I’ll drive you down there.’
Peter breathed a sigh of relief, but the driver sounded worried as he said, ‘I think your plane may have left. Let me call in and see if we can still make it.’ After a short, excited conversation he turned to Peter.
‘Buddy, you’re in luck. The plane was ready to go but they are holding it for you. I told them you were cleared for take-off and you are partially blind. They’ll have a wheelchair at the ready. As soon as you get aboard you’ll be off and in the air.’
‘Am I glad I met you,’ Peter answered. ‘Thanks so much for this.’
‘Not a problem. Take care and have a good trip.’
Moments later Peter was wheeled into a huge plane then strapped into his seat. His relief was so great he immediately began to relax, to doze and suddenly he dropped blissfully into the arms of Morpheus―deeply, totally and soundly asleep.

When Peter awoke everything seemed very strange. The entire plane was in darkness. All the passengers were wrapped in blankets, sound asleep. His Oakland flight should have taken only a few hours, but here on board it appeared to be very late at night. He caught sight of a stewardess and waved her over to him.
‘I’m confused,’ he whispered. ‘Where are we?’
‘We’ve just passed over the Fiji Islands and our pilot has changed now to his southerly flight pattern,’ she replied. ‘You’ve been sleeping soundly for nine hours. We couldn’t even wake you to check your boarding pass or to serve your dinner.’
‘Miss, I think I’ve boarded the wrong plane. I was travelling to my home in Oakland, California.’
‘Oh Mr. Bolcombe, I don’t know how to tell you this, but the plane we’re travelling on is heading for Auckland, New Zealand. We’ll be arriving there in another four hours.’
Peter spent the next few minutes in a complete daze. First he moved into denial and then a deep and terrible shock set in. Stunned and shaking he said aloud to himself, ‘Well here I am now, halfway around the world without my glasses, a ticket, my luggage, or a passport. This has been an absolute bugger of a weekend!’

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The Shipwreck Coast – A Traveller’s Tale

My latest eBook, ‘The Shipwreck Coast – A Traveller’s Tale,’ was inspired by a road trip along Australia’s Great Ocean Road. The powerful memories of many shipwrecks claimed there by the Great Southern Ocean, lingered for years to form the basis of this short novella.

The Blurb:

The Shipwreck Coast—claiming Antarctica as its nearest neighbour—borders part of Australia’s Great Southern Ocean. Turbulent seas, dense fogs, and underwater reefs make navigating this stretch of coastline one of the most dangerous on earth. During the years when clipper ships were celebrated as ‘Kings of the Seas,’ more than two hundred of these majestic vessels met their fate along this treacherous route.

One crew member, together with a female passenger travelling first class, survive the wreck of the Scottish clipper, the Loch Kyle. While each survivor has a different tale to tell, both stories share common threads of courage and endurance in the face of a total disaster.

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Two Reviews:

“As usual, Mary Mageau writes in her gentle style. She is able to convey scenes and to evoke the feelings connected with places and people. This story, set in the days of the racing clippers, commences in Scotland, moves to Ireland and thence to Australia. The outcome was not as anticipated – a delightful change from many historical novels!

Another to add to your list of books to be read if you enjoy accurate historical adventures.”
Margie Riley

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“The adept Mary Mageau has done it again, this time in a novella set in the time frame of the clipper ships. Mary takes this time in history and makes it come to life; a master at painting a picture for all to see, courtesy of her words. I lived this tale of a story based on the ill-fated Loch Kyle.”
Michele Doucette

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This book can be purchased from Amazon’s Kindle store in the USA by clicking on

The Shipwreck Coast

In Australia, visit Amazon then click on kindle books and  type in, The Shipwreck Coast.
Happy reading!

I have some health issues to settle so my next blog post will arrive on Thursday, August 19th.

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The Road to Longreach

 

the costal fringe
of green and blue
disappears
behind the gateway
to the outback

wheat, sorghum
and cotton stubble
glistens in the
autumn sun as
hawks patrol the skies

sunflowers
faces to the light
a last blaze of colour
in this dryland’s
barren outlook

rich brown soil
of the rural strip
surrenders
to brick red, burnt ochre
of the open range

beyond
and further out
in orange dust
a single cornstalk
displays its tassel

… days pass as we move through this desolate landscape of vast open spaces, carved into two parts by the road we travel on, a continuous ribbon drawing us straight ahead into its vanishing point, with only spinifex grass and saltbush lying between us and our destination.  

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